06/01/25 - Windtower II

 

Windtower (2nd Time) 

This has somewhat become a tradition for my buddy Sam (another different Sam, I'm not talking in the third person) and I (we completed our first summit last year on January 1st). This year we were joined by Sam's buddy Joe, making a trio for the second summit attempt. Last year proved to be quite difficult as were were quite unprepared and were not expecting the length we encountered. The day was shaping up to be a good one as the skies were clear and just as we arrived at the trailhead the sky was beginning to brighten. The car thermometer was reading negative fifteen degrees, but it actually felt pretty mild as it was still outside with little to no wind. Our ultimate push was the summit, but our mindset was to get there in the most fun way possible and we weren't against turning around if the conditions weren't favourable. Joe and I were armed with Microspikes and a Black Diamond Raven ice axe each, while Sam was equipped with dedicated Petzl crampons and the Petzl Gully ice axe. Our previous summit we encountered hard packed windswept snow so we concluded ice axes were almost a necessity along with some form of spikes. Our plan was to follow the trail to the col between Mount Rimwall and Windtower and then instead of following the trail from there we were going to challenge Windtower directly poking our way through various cliff bands and chimneys. 

Our Route (we returned via the trail)

Our route up the face (estimated)

The ascent was quite fun compared to the last time we did it, and in my opinion quite manageable. There was definitely some exposure and some uncomfortable spots but overall the snow made it quite enjoyable. I would strongly caution people against taking this route in the summer as it would probably fall anywhere between a 4th and 5th class scramble, but the fact that the chimneys were filled with hard packed snow made it passible in the winter.

Sam (front) and Joe (rear) on an open face 

The push to the summit the way we did it makes for an unrelenting push that requires a certain amount of sustained focus. I think this is what it makes it so enjoyable; we are able to test ourselves in a way that is almost unobtainable otherwise. The mountains seem to be an addiction that once you're hooked you can't kick. Once off the face of Windtower we were back on trail and ready for the final push to the summit. The unrelenting grade was only subsided by the encapsulating beauty of Spray Lakes and the ominance that Lougheed 1 bestows upon you. 

Sam and Joe with Spray Lakes behind (Lougheed 1 screen to the left)

There are several false summits from this point until the summit which can be discouraging, but when you stop and take a look around the disappointment quickly subsides. Before we knew it we were steps from the summit. A feeling of euphoria rushed over me as we finally arrived at our goal, not because of ego but because it was the perfect way to end a perfect climb in one of the most perfect places on earth... and it's in out backyard. 

1/2: Summit Views, 3: Sam and Joe on the summit 

After some quick refuelling in the form of cheese, apples and sesame snaps, we retreated down the summit ready for an easier journey down than up: we were mistaken. Although the journey down was technically easier than the way up we were met with waist deep snow and cornices with drops of up to fifteen feet below them. We maybe had a little too much fun on them and by the time we were down to the col we were quickly running out of daylight. 

After what felt like hours we ended up reaching the col and later the car. I don't think I'm alone when I say I was exhausted at this point. The daily totals were around 11km and over 1000m of elevation gain. The day in numbers wasn't measured by this for us though, it was measured by the number of laughs, the number of times our adrenaline pumped and the number of times Joe had to pee. The day was a success on all fronts for us. We got to test ourselves yet again and see just how far we could push. There will inevitably but this one feels special for some reason. Who knows, maybe there's a Windtower III next January for Sam and I. 

Joe (front) and Sam (rear) traversing a large field of snow somewhere on the face of Windtower